Living most of my life in Southern California, I never really experienced what people like to call “winter.” I remember being so jealous of people who could actually wear pea coats. Pea coats were the cutest! Since moving to Rome and acquiring my own winter accessories arsenal, I get it. Winter is cold. All those […]
Tag Archives: centro storico
11
Dec
Dec
Fall is in the air, with winter just behind it. This new and welcome layer of crispness has sent me dreaming of seasonal delights. One thing that is always in season? Chocolate covered gelato. Have I mentioned the Irishman? Well, whenever he fancies a pint, I try to persuade him to head to the pub that is […]
04
Dec
Dec
Bronze turtles dangle from Fontana di Tartarughe in a lovely Roman piazza.
11
Oct
Oct
The plastic sheeting is back. After a summer of heat waves and travel, I really forgot what Rome is likely on a cool and very rainy day. In my corner of Testaccio, where a clothes dryer is an unthinkable and unnecessary luxury, that means plastic sheeting. Clothes do not stop dirtying themselves simply because it […]
24
Sep
Sep
Rome has no shortages of landmarks: Colosseum, Pantheon, St. Peter’s Square, Pyramid of Cestius, Circus Maximus… But one of my favorite landmarks of all is the bright yellow FORNO sign on Via dei Chiavari. Antico Forno Roscioli is a Roman institution. Locals come here for their daily bread, a few brutti ma buoni biscotti, and […]
31
Aug
Aug
Rome is ancient. 2,768 years old, to be exact. Rome is old enough to know better, but it acts more like an underachieving child. It hangs out with the wrong crowd, it really doesn’t care enough about making a good impression, and generally partakes in some activities it is going to regret when it is […]
25
Aug
Aug
I hope you like photos, because it is really hard for me to put into words how much I love this place. Santa Maria in Ara Coeli is my favorite church in Rome. It is the most beautiful church in Rome. I mean, if you like brassy and in-your-face beauty. Which I obviously do, because […]
14
Aug
Aug
To me, Campo de Fiori is a meeting spot. It is a place to agree to find each other so that you can move on to somewhere else. It is not that I don’t like the market there, it simply is not my market. Neighborhood markets are, by definition, in your own neighborhood. I wouldn’t […]