The center of Rome is fraught with bad food, and I tend to head towards more local neighborhoods when I want an affordable delicious meal. You may be dreaming of beautiful dinners next to the Colosseum — but good luck! Unless, of course, you make a reservation at Terre e Domus. A short walk from […]
Tag Archives: city center
The plastic sheeting is back. After a summer of heat waves and travel, I really forgot what Rome is likely on a cool and very rainy day. In my corner of Testaccio, where a clothes dryer is an unthinkable and unnecessary luxury, that means plastic sheeting. Clothes do not stop dirtying themselves simply because it […]
To me, Campo de Fiori is a meeting spot. It is a place to agree to find each other so that you can move on to somewhere else. It is not that I don’t like the market there, it simply is not my market. Neighborhood markets are, by definition, in your own neighborhood. I wouldn’t […]
The first time I ever had supplì, I spit it out. I was mid-conversation, and I picked up a small fried ball and popped it into my mouth. Without breaking eye contact, I very quickly spit it back into my napkin with little to no subtlety. It was one of the most awkward, and also […]
I walk too quickly. With one earbud in, and one out, I dip on and off the sidewalk to pass and dodge… but also to listen for approaching cars as I hop in and out of the road while trying to get around throngs of people in the center of Rome. (Because everyone knows that […]