Tag Archives: city center

Enoteca Provinica Romana: Terre e Domus

The center of Rome is fraught with bad food, and I tend to head towards more local neighborhoods when I want an affordable delicious meal. You may be dreaming of beautiful dinners next to the Colosseum — but good luck!  Unless, of course, you make a reservation at Terre e Domus. A short walk from […]

Coffee in Rome from Sant’Eustachio

The plastic sheeting is back. After a summer of heat waves and travel, I really forgot what Rome is likely on a cool and very rainy day. In my corner of Testaccio, where a clothes dryer is an unthinkable and unnecessary luxury, that means plastic sheeting.  Clothes do not stop dirtying themselves simply because it […]

Forno Campo de’ Fiori

Forno Campo de Fiori Rome pizza bianca

To me, Campo de Fiori is a meeting spot.  It is a place to agree to find each other so that you can move on to somewhere else. It is not that I don’t like the market there, it simply is not my market.  Neighborhood markets are, by definition, in your own neighborhood.  I wouldn’t […]

Supplizio: Fried Goodness in Rome’s Centro Storico

fried street food in Rome from Supplizio

The first time I ever had supplì, I spit it out. I was mid-conversation, and I picked up a small fried ball and popped it into my mouth. Without breaking eye contact, I very quickly spit it back into my napkin with little to no subtlety. It was one of the most awkward, and also […]