While Halloween is gaining in popularity, there are other Italian holidays that take precedent this week. The 1st of November is All Saints’ Day (Ognissanti), with the Day of the Dead following straight behind on November 2nd. One of the traditional foods to eat on the Italian Day of the Dead (la commemorazione dei defunti) […]
Roman markets have a good dose of character. But they literally have nothing on the free-for-all, in-your-face, food-and-people-crush that is the Neapolitan experience. Craving some fried foods, Sara and I hopped on the train for a day trip to Naples. Just off of Via Toledo, we only needed to take a short metro ride to […]
Where to find the coolest and creepiest cemeteries in Italy.
A contemporary art pop-up takes over Rome’s old army barracks.
By the time I cross Via Marmorata, I know that I am nearly home. Turning up Via Alessandro Volta, head down and aiming towards the piazza I nearly tripped over the pavement when I saw what had happened to Volpetti Piu. “Huuhhhhwhaaaaaaaat?” I managed, cartoon-style. “What. What is this?” Inside, the old tavola calda, was […]
The gleaming travertine stairs have reopened after a restoration funded by Bulgari.
There are a lot of places I have liked recently in Rome. Mercato Centrale? Intriguing but not somewhere I really want to hang out. Mazzo? Pretty good, but far. Madre? Ok. But it has been a very long time since a new Rome restaurant really impressed me. La Punta is better than good. The new […]
How to be invited into a Roman kitchen and leave very well fed.








