Taverna Volpetti: Wine Bar and more in Testaccio, Rome

By the time I cross Via Marmorata, I know that I am nearly home.

Turning up Via Alessandro Volta, head down and aiming towards the piazza I nearly tripped over the pavement when I saw what had happened to Volpetti Piu.

“Huuhhhhwhaaaaaaaat?” I managed, cartoon-style. “What. What is this?”


Inside, the old tavola calda, was gone. It was replaced with a sleek wooden counter, new tiled floors and bistrot tables.

I know that many will mourn the loss of the tavola calda – a place to stop in for pre-prepared foods to be eaten quickly and simply as lunch or dinner.

However, Volpetti Più was dead to me the day they microwaved the squid I ordered from their daily offerings. I will not miss it.

So I was intrigued to see what the new Taverna Volpetti had to offer.

volpetti-taverna bistrot

Volpetti has been a Testaccio mainstay for the last four decades. The specialty shop is piled with prosciutto, salami and cheeses, as well as hard-to-find gourmet ingredients from all over Italy.

Stepping into Volpetti, which the family sold last year, can feel a bit like entering foodie Disneyland. Hams spin from racks above you while you are insistently told to “sample this!” “try this!”

I would not begrudge a family shop any of its hard earned success as long at the quality remains unimpeachable. With that quality in mind, I was looking forward to trying Taverna Volpetti.

Just into a month after opening, Taverna Volpetti has no menu.  They do, however, serve lunch and dinner, and will just need to have those printed at some point. (Plans for breakfast and a new butcher are in the works).

I was less interested in a sit down meal and more intrigued to see if Testaccio would finally have a decent wine bar.  So, Jimmy and I met two friends for drinks and un piccolo assaggio. A small taste.

volpetti taverna aperitivo

The plate was beautiful.

Saffron cheese, wild boar salami, perfect prosciutto – this was what I wanted from Taverna Volpetti.  It was a lovely selection of products sold in the Volpetti gourmet market around the corner.

Just to be complicated, we each ordered a different glass of wine, but the service was friendly and easy.

Of course, this is still Volpetti, so do not expect your gorgeous meats and cheeses at a steep discount. We spent about €55 for 4 glasses of wine and the plate you see above.

Taverna Volpetti
Via Alessandro Volta 8
Rome, Italy (Testaccio)

Open: Monday to Saturday from 10:30 am to 3:30 pm, and 5:30 pm to 11 pm.

Closed Sundays




2 thoughts on “Taverna Volpetti: Wine Bar and more in Testaccio, Rome

  1. Pingback: Assemblea: Testaccio’s Curated Made in Italy Shop – An American in Rome

  2. Andrew Martin says:

    Que brava! After a wander around Nuovo Mercato Testaccio this morning and buying perfect produce per cena stasera and realising the perfect state of flux the area is in now. The proverbial cake was iced by aperitivo at Taverna Voipetti.Riesling perfetto. Grazie voi! Andrew e Tess a Melbourne.

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