Tag Archives: trastevere

Porta Portese: Rome’s Flea Market

Senti. (Listen). I need new shoes. Need. I do not mean “need” in the metaphorical “it would be nice to have” sense. I mean I actually for once in my life really need new shoes. In the past six weeks, I have thrown away four pairs, and this is not sustainable. Thankfully, I am back […]

Le Mani in Pasta

The thrill and the tragedy of expat life are one in the same: you are not from here. The irresistible draw of “not-from-here” is what drives many to travel or settle abroad. When you are an expat, you can take pride in your not-from-here-ness. You wear it like a badge of honor. You revel in […]

Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

The most famous church in Trastevere is by far the Basilica di Santa Maria.  Santa Maria is beautiful, but my favorite is Santa Cecilia: On my way to dinner once, I wandered past Santa Cecilia just as the bells were ringing.  They stopped me in my tracks, and I joined a small crowded that had gathered […]

Macaroni and Cheese in Rome

Cacio e pepe is a Roman dish, it is also the best “macaroni and cheese” that you will ever eat. This is the dish that reminds me of home, even though making comparisons to Kraft dinners is probably sacrilege. Cacio is a Roman cheese, and pepe is simply black pepper. Throw that on top of […]