My plan to get married in a castle did not quite work out.
Obviously, the next best thing is a palace.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get married in a palace either. Such is life.
However, one of the perks of living in Rome is being able to visit a palace whenever you damn well please.
There are palaces a-plenty.
Palazzo Spada is located in heart of the city, a few minutes walk from Campo de’ Fiori. You may well be able to spot it based on its gorgeous facade as long as you are paying enough attention to look up from the cobblestones.
The lovely stucco decorations continue in the courtyard, which is usually closed by a gate. However you can peak through for a sense of the architecture.
The inside is not terribly shabby either.
After purchasing a €5 ticket (€2.50 if you are an EU citizen under 25), you can climb the stairs to the first floor which houses the Galleria Spada.
The palazzo and the galleria are named for Cardinal Spada, the man who transformed the palace after he purchased it in 1632.
The Church was big business to afford the luxury of such a living space, and Spada did not let that space go to waste.
The gallery stretches through four rooms, filled with 16th and 17th century work by the likes of Caravaggio, Reubens and Titian.
While the art collection is no joke, the real draw is the architecture. I loved spotting details like the ornate carved ceiling- similar to the ceiling of Palazzo Farnese which is just up the street.
When Cardinal Spada purchased the palazzo, he quickly hired Borromini to redo it for him.
The master architect added a trick – the forced perspective in the internal courtyard.
How long does this corridor look?
The columns and arches seem to stretch on for 35 m, but it is really less than 9 m (28 ft) in length.
And the statue? How tall do you think it is?
He stands 60 cm, or just 23 inches, high.
The ceiling at the end of the colonnades is so low that only a child would be able to stand.
The optical illusion is so unnecessary which it was makes it so fun. Why did Borromini do it? To show off his wit?
The complicated, mathematics of the tunneling archways were the work of a perfectionist.
Unfortunately, that perfectionist Swiss architect was also sometimes described as ‘neurotic.’ In 1667, he stabbed himself in the neck with his own sword.
Borromini died with many of his works unfinished, but visiting The Perspective at Palazzo Spada offers a wonderful glimpse at his genius, and is one of the most under-visited sites in Rome.
It is also free the first Sunday of the month! Which is when I went, naturally.
Palazzo Spada
Vicolo del Polverone, 15/b
Closed Tuesdays; open every other day from 8:30 am – 7:30 pm. (Ticket office closes 30 minutes before).
Wonderful article. I enjoyed it and learned so very much. Been to Rome twice and missed this so we are moving shortly (as citizens – yaaa!) and I have it on our list. Thank you very much. Wonderful pictures by the way.
Thanks so much! There is an amazing amount to discover– I am sure you will have a great time!!
I really enjoy reading your blog, and your writing style.
I am planning to move to Rome this summer. From SoCal to Rome- for love!
Seeing it through your eyes and experiences makes me love the place even more!
Thank you.
Yay! The best city for the best reason– though I do miss SoCal sometimes. Especially the Mexican food.
Thanks so much for the nice comment- hope your planning for the move is going well!
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I’m trying to figure out if there is a genuine Caravaggio in the Galleria Spada, or rather just followers, etc.
peek not peak.
Thank you, Natalie! I can’t wait to see this!
Enjoy! It is such a lovely little hidden gem in Rome.
Wow !
“Rome, thou art a whole world, it is true, and yet without love this
World would not be the world, Rome would cease to be Rome…”