Aromaticus: Plant Shop and Kitchen in Monti

I cannot keep plants alive. I try. I coddle. I water. I find the right amount of sunlight. Then I fail and they die. But luckily, I can replace them any time I want at Aromaticus. This quirky little shop in Monti is a gardener’s dream. Potted greens, watering cans in every shape and size, […]

Unexpected Rome: Caravaggio in Piazza del Popolo

The most eye-catching buildings in Piazza del Popolo are the twin churches of Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria di Montesanto. The churches stand at the end of Via del Corso, central Rome’s most concentrated shopping destination. However, the hidden gem in this piazza is actually the plainer-looking basilica to the north of the square: Santa Maria […]

April in Copenhagen

Copenhagen canals and buildings

Jimmy kept asking what I wanted to do for my birthday this year. “Oh nothing,” I answered again and again. “We didn’t really do anything last year, I don’t see why we should make a fuss this year.” Jimmy is often astounded at my poor memory. We absolutely did do something for my birthday last […]

Volpetti Specialty Food Store in Rome’s Testaccio Neighborhood

When I first moved to Rome, Amazon was a pipe dream. Yelp? Didn’t yet exist here. (Not that it would have mattered so much, because though I paid handsomely, my internet barely functioned). And just so we are clear on timelines: New York got Eataly before Rome did. All this to say- if you needed […]

Renato e Luisa

renato e luisa restaurant in Rome

It is easy to imagine Rome as a food mecca, with glorious but quaint trattorie tucked into picturesque alleyways. The truth is, it’s easy to get a bad meal in the center of Rome. Reeeeeeeal easy. Which is why you need to know about restaurants like Renato e Luisa. The kitchen is tiny, but open […]