One of the key pieces of advice I give people who are just moving to Rome is “carry a book.” You never know when you will be paralyzed in an impossibly slow, bureaucratic queue, or when you will be stuck waiting 45 minutes for the bus that is supposed to pass by every 10 minutes. Books […]
My Sardinian friend told me that there were no good Sardinian restaurants in Rome. Oh really? Challenge accepted. When Livia shared that she had discovered a small, central enoteca specialized in all thing Sardegna, I called Serena. “Let’s try it. You can be the judge.” When we arrived, Stefano wasted no time in suggesting the mozzarella. […]
The Amalfi coast is unlike any place I have been before. It is unreal. We were able to take in the cliffs and the sea as we took the ferry from Salerno, but our first port of call was Amalfi. I have heard many many times that the drive to Amalfi is incredible (if a […]
When we visited the Amalfi coast, we stayed in Salerno. I am so happy with that choice. Salerno has a new high speed train station, so it is easy to get there from Rome in 2 hours. Staying in the historic center of the city at the cusp of summer was intoxicating. Everyone was out […]
Long evenings are stretching into June, even though so far the month seems to be spotted with rain. With summer about to kick into full gear, we are welcoming the sun and all of the events that the long days and warm weather bring. Rome’s river bars will be opening soon (but we are still […]
Tabaccherie (tabacco shops) are the workhorses of Italy. You can do a lot of useful things in an Italian tabaccheria. The shops are nearly ubiquitous, identifiable by the black and white (or blue and white) T signs that hang outside their doors. What are they for? Well, here are 7 things you can do at […]
I have a major soft spot for the Portuense attitude and fluffy maritozzi of Il Maritozzaro, but I am not one to deny a good thing when I see it. Pasticceria Regoli makes seriously delicious maritozzi. Remember- a maritozzo is a classic Roman pastry. Traditionally a Lenten treat, the bun topped with panna (heavy cream) […]
Checchino’s wood paneled dining room feels frozen in time. And let’s not forget that I am a sucker for crisp linens and retro swiveling barstools studded with copper nails. White jacketed waiters go through an elaborate show of wheeling around a small table and pouring wine through a series of unneeded but atmosphere-enhancing steps. With […]
