Fairytale Boutique: Shopping In Rome’s Testaccio District

I needed to go to the supermarket on Saturday. The supermarket is right next to Piazza Testaccio, and as I rounded the corner to buy household necessities, I remembered that there was something else next to Piazza Testaccio as well. Mission: Diverted. I ambled over to Fairytale “just to look,” I told myself. Fairytale is very […]

Madre in Rome’s Monti district: Ceviche, Pizza and Cocktails

garden restaurant Madre in Rome with hanging plant rows on ceiling, living plant wall and bright green couches

Having opened just last week in Monti, Madre might be Rome’s most Pinterest perfect location. The perfectly mismatched table settings? The colorful glass wear? The menu design? Checkity check check. But it is really, obviously, the lush, curated garden setting that makes the outdoor dining room so gorgeous. Gifted with a cool summer evening, we […]

Dar Filettaro in Rome: Filetti di Baccalà

Updated March 2023 I don’t really love baccalà. The salted cod can come off mushy and overly powerful in many dishes. But fried? Amazing. Dar Filettaro is one of those Roman institutions that you love not in spite of it shortcomings but because of them. It is a tiny restuarant that serves one thing: filetti […]

Santa Maria in Trastevere

I was sitting in front of Santa Maria in Trastevere recently to finish my Fior di Luna gelato con calma. It’s seriously not the worst. From its cosmati floors: To the tip-top of its burnished gold altar. I wanted to revisit the church after reading a short story about a woman’s love affair with a statue […]

Dolce & Gabbana Take Over Naples

While refined Fendi was presenting their latest collection at an insane show at the Trevi Fountain, Dolce and Gabbana were doing the same in Naples. I love Napoli. I am currently trying to convince Jimmy that we need to at least drop in for a day trip to Naples in the next few weeks. But Naples and […]