When it comes to culinary achievements, Naples is best known for pizza. However, being someone who sometimes goes to Naples for the day with the express goal of eating as much as possible, I knew that I also had to try the pinnacle of ridiculousness and make my way out to Chalet Ciro for ice cream served in a cone made out of a sugar-coated donut.
Chalet Ciro is a funny little bar with yellow awnings that sits on a concrete island between a busy street and the waterfront.
Looking out over the Gulf of Naples, it is easy to see how this shady little spot has been one of the favorite neighborhood gathering points since the 1950s.
I like all the savory dishes that Naples serves up, but I am also a fan of their pastries. When I heard that Chalet Ciro was making a gelato cone out of a graffa (a deep fried spiral of pastry that is covered in sugar), I knew that I had to have one. For breakfast.
I turned up at the Mergellina cafe at 10 am and proudly ordered my “conograffa” – only to have the woman at the cash register scream out to the gelateria to see if the graffe were ready. I had assumed I could get one for breakfast because a graffa is served like a donut would be. In other words, morning food.
Luckily, the gelato guys had just made their pastry cones and I was able to swagger over to the counter to select my flavors.
Naturally, I said yes to everything when I was offered whipped cream, cookies and/or M&Ms on top.
The result was a sugar monstrosity. Ice cream in a donut cone, with more candy on top for good measure.
I regret nothing. (Though I think that in the future I will space out my donuts and my ice cream servings rather than smushing them together).
If you happen to decide to go for a meal other than breakfast, I highly recommend stopping for a pizza at 50 Kalo, which is about a 3-minute walk away.
Open: 6:45 am – 3 am every day