Away from the crowds that spill out from Antica Pizzeria da Michele or Sorbillo, 50 Kalò feels calm and contained.
We literally took one look at the mass of humans outside Sorbillo on Via Tribunali and hailed a taxi.
For €17 (and of course no actual meter used) we were whisked across town and then along the Lungomare to a Neapolitan neighborhood I have never explored before – Mergellina.
We were seated at 50 Kalò immediately, which was a wonder of wonders at 2 pm on Saturday.
The menu was a promising mix of classic pizzas and seasonal Slow Food twists.
While Sara and I waited for the pizza, we contemplated the dough philosophy over large glasses of white wine.
Ciro Salvo is all about the dough – high hydration, low protein, highly-digestible, apparently.
Ciro obviously thinks about dough more than I do, but I do care about carbs.
I have been seeing way way way too many blog posts about “cauliflower pizza crust,” America.
Let’s all just agree that there is only one acceptable pizza foundation, ok?
The crust was thicker than I had imagined – thanks to the “digestible” dough.
It is, overall, a doughy version of Neapolitan pizza. Very good, but unlike the pizzas with barely-cooked centers you will find at other pizzerie in the historic part of town.
A great balance of cheese and acidity.
50 Kalò is decidedly modern, which is an observation rather than any kind of criticism.
The restaurant is bright, and embraces natural wines and craft beers.
The total cost for two pizzas, two very generous glasses of wine, and water? €27.50
Not waiting for a table or having to elbow our way to pizza nirvana? Priceless.
Pizzeria 50 Kalò di Ciro Salvo
Piazza Sannazzaro 201/B
Napoli, Italy
+39 081 1920 4667 (but reservations are not accepted).
Open everyday from 12:30 – 4 pm for lunch, and 7:30 pm – 12:30 am for dinner.