La Campana, down a small street not far from Piazza Navona, is supposedly Rome’s oldest restaurant. The eatery has been welcoming patrons for over 500 years- and I’m sure many of the dishes are unchanged for decades if not centuries.
La Campana was also reportedly one of Caravaggio’s favorite restaurants and the Renaissance master has paintings hanging in two nearby churches: San Luigi dei Francesi and Sant’Agostino, so this was clearly his preferred neighborhood.
The artist is also rumored to have drawn inspiration for still life paintings from the artichokes on the menu.
Naturally, thinking of this, I found myself in the mood for fried artichokes when we had a recent Sunday lunch in the historic restaurant.
La Campana is as traditional a Roman restaurant as they come, down to the white tablecloths and brocade curtains. The menu highlights the classic pastas (the amatriciana is excellent) and quinto quarto (fifth quarter) mains like coda alla vacinnara. However, you’ll also find dishes that have fallen out of fashion at most Roman eateries – like minestra di pasta e broccoli e arzilla (broccoli and skate soup).
Ending the meal with the institution’s famous apple cake is almost required.
Even though the restaurant has an old school feel, it wasn’t uncomfortably snooty and the kids were welcome. It’s definitely on our limited list of places to eat in the heart of the Eternal City from now on. Make sure to book ahead, and stop in after exploring the winding alleys and grand sights like the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, both of which are only a few minutes’ walk away.
La Campana
Vicolo della Campana 18
Rome, Italy (Centro Storico, Pantheon)
Phone: 06 687 5273
Open: Tuesday – Sunday for lunch 12:30 – 3 pm and dinner 7:30 – 11 pm.
What are your thoughts about traveling to Rome inthe first week of June 2025? I understand that there will be a Catholic Jubilee that year, and am now hesitant to go. Any thoughts/ ideas would be greatly appreciated! Should we choose another time? TIA!
ooooh – that is a hard call. Rome in June tends to be busy but the Jubilee year will be even more so. I think you will notice it most in terms of hotel availability and prices so you might want to check that now and then decide
Carolyn – I was hoping to do the same. Our travel agent who books custom experiences in Rome discouraged the peak year because of the Jubilee. Natalie has good advice on prices, but also know the prices may not drop for tours because they’re expecting an influx of people and can still be competitive.
And open for Sunday dinner which is not the norm in Rome
Dear Natalie,
My husband and I will be spending several months in Rome, March – May. Do you have any advice on how/where to see the Good Friday stations of the cross? Or anything else to add about the Easter holidays in Rome this year? We enjoy your blog!
With best wishes,
Suzanne
Hi Suzanne! I think Easter will be different this year since it is the Jubilee but the Stations at the Cross at the Colosseum should take place as normal. One of the best things to do would be to visit the church in your neighborhood and speak to the priest for tips.
We will be in Rome for the first week of March. Saw this also on a video of the area. Will stop in then.
Are food tours worthwhile? Other recommendations?
If you want to sample lots of things, then yes, I suggest a food tour. I like the ones in specific neighborhoods like Trastevere or Testaccio that include a market stop.