The paperwork in Italy is never done. No. Really. Never done. In five years, I have never written about how to get a permesso di soggiornio because just thinking about it gives me chest pains. However, the process is slowly getting better and it remains one of those necessities of life in Italy as a […]
Category Archives: Italy
09
Dec
Dec
What to do and where to stay in Gubbio, Italy
19
Oct
Oct
I think it is pretty easy to tell why Urbino is a World Heritage Site: The walled city seems to climb over itself, with layers of pointed roofs culminating at the Ducal Palace. With the gorgeous palace at its core, Urbino still feels like a college town. The University infuses a young vibe into a […]
15
Oct
Oct
I’m not going to pretend like I never curl up in bed and watch pirated Netflix for hours and hours, because I absolutely do. But my #1 guilty pleasure is taking a weekday off to go exploring small Italian hamlets. Cobblestones, towers, crypts and general small-townyness — Offida fits the bill perfectly. With only one thing on […]
24
Sep
Sep
Rome has no shortages of landmarks: Colosseum, Pantheon, St. Peter’s Square, Pyramid of Cestius, Circus Maximus… But one of my favorite landmarks of all is the bright yellow FORNO sign on Via dei Chiavari. Antico Forno Roscioli is a Roman institution. Locals come here for their daily bread, a few brutti ma buoni biscotti, and […]
14
Aug
Aug
To me, Campo de Fiori is a meeting spot. It is a place to agree to find each other so that you can move on to somewhere else. It is not that I don’t like the market there, it simply is not my market. Neighborhood markets are, by definition, in your own neighborhood. I wouldn’t […]
26
Jan
Jan
The house is in shambles. I ping pong from one project to the next, dropping whatever I am doing as soon as I notice a potentially more pressing task sitting across the room. Nothing is done. Everything is everywhere. We are moving. Again. It’s a happy move. It’s an impulsive move. A move undertaken due […]
20
Jan
Jan
Roman rain is dreary in January, which is why we escaped to slightly-warmer Spain over the weekend. The Barcelona jaunt was short lived and being back in the land of unpredictable downpours and unreliable transport has me longing for summer in Tuscany. Rome is photogenic if you get below its chaotic facade, but Tuscany is […]