I think Trastevere is one of the most picturesque parts of Rome.
So when I was invited to stroll those cute streets, stopping to sip wine and eat along the way?
Oh hellz yeah.
The Twilight Trastevere Tour is a great way to discover this little area of Rome and depending on the exact experience, you might even start on the other side of the river – near Campo de’ Fiori. Before then winding your way across the Tiber and into the historic quarter of cobblestones alleys and cute little workshops.
Wasting no time, we got straight into the cured meats.
Salami with Barolo was a favorite, losing only to the truffle studded meats (yesssss) we nibbled in the back room of a historic norcineria that has been in the same family since 1890.
If you think you don’t like salted cod, try this. Fried in a light batter (we heard the secret ingredient was acqua frizzante), it is perfectly crunchy and salty.
I would be happy to make a meal out of filetti di baccalà alone.
After the deliciously fried appetizer, you can get a bit of walk in, as you cross Ponte Sisto
A leisurely stroll across Ponte Sisto brings you into Piazza Trilussa – Trastevere at last!
Which makes perfect sense, because filetti di baccalà is commonly served in pizzerias.
Our pizza goal here, however, was pizza al taglio – freshly made pizza that is sold by the slice.
We watched the pizza-making process while waiting for our classic Margherita to slide out of the oven.
Now on a roll, we moved from pizza to farm fresh ingredients at a small local shop. As locals wandered in to buy cheese and fresh produce, we sampled a lovely platter of antipasti.
The red cabbage and citrus bruschetta felt positively virtuous, at the same time it was exceedingly tasty. I can’t wait to try to recreate that one.
Our organic veggies devoured, we took to wandering the classic Trastevere alleyways just as restaurants were setting up their outdoor tables for dinner.
With the gorgeous spring weather in full swing, we decided to dine al fuori as well, at one of the best restaurants in Trastevere.
The best was yet to come:
Oh lord, how I love carciofi alla giudia.
These twice-fried Roman artichokes are eaten whole – the outside is perfectly potato-chip crispy, while the heart inside remains creamy and deeply flavored.
So as not to have to decide, we made our meal out of two pastas: cacio e pepe and amatriciana.
After finishing dinner and wine, we looped back across the Tiber, crossing Tiber Island.
It couldn’t be over before dessert:
The Twilight Trastevere Tour lasts about four hours and stops at many of my favorite little spots along the way (but I won’t ruin the surprise). It is a good option if you want a condensed overview of food in a very central neighborhood, or are short on time and want to sample lots in a limited amount of mealtimes. The groups are fun and the guides know their stuff!)
Keep in mind that the tour is constantly being improved so you may not visit every place I mention above. However, the company keeps getting better so I promise the food you do have will be delicious and authentic.