I have a friend who is 7-years-old and has lived in Rome almost all her life.
As a nearly lifelong Roman, and at the age when she is a true pizza connoisseur, I trust her judgment.
We always meet for dinner at Ai Marmi, her local pizzeria in Trastevere. And since she is 7, we go a bit on the early side which usually means we have the popular pizza place almost all to ourselves.
She is a classMargheritaita girl herself but I am always instructed to order salsiccia (sausage) so that she can have a piece.
I usually bend the rules slightly and order salsiccia with fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers) when they are in season.
Her mother is allowed to order as she pleases. That means capricciosa – prosciutto, mushrooms, artichoke, olives, and egg.
Marmi means “marble,” so Ai Marmi takes its name from the marble tabletops which line the interior, pushed up together so you are eating elbow-to-elbow with other guests because the cool, white tables are almost always packed.
Outside, even longer rows of tables are especially popular in the summer but will be filled even in the cooler months.
Ai Marmi is a typical neighborhood joint. The pizzas come out quick and hot, with that just-right char, and the table turnover is high. It is a place to come with your friends, eat your Roman-style pizza and go, so to speak.
You might wait briefly for a seat, but you will earn a comforting cheesy delight for your patience.
I have no idea why the prices all end in 80 cents, but Ai Marmi is not a bad deal in this part of town.
If I had one critique, it might be that Calzone could be translated slightly more appealingly, BUT they do have “hot pizza bags filled with ham, cheese and eggs,” should you want one of those instead.
Pizzeria Ai Marmi
Viale Trastevere 53,
Rome, Italy (Trastevere)
Open: Every day except Wednesday from 7 pm to 2 am. No reservations accepted, so expect a line at peak times.