It is depressingly easy to eat badly around Campo de’ Fiori – particularly if you stick to the piazza itself. So thank god for Grappolo d’Oro, an osteria that is a mere 30-second walk around the corner from the famous square.
The fact that a consistently great and fairly priced Slow Food restaurant exists in the touristy heart of the city is something to celebrate. Preferably with chilled prosecco. (Related: this restaurant has a great wine list).
Slow Food is a movement that began in Italy as a reaction to and a protest against fast food culture. Today, it represents a global effort to protect and promote local foods and local food culture.
Grappolo d’Oro is recognized in the Slow Food guide because they buy these specific local products from farmers in the Roman countryside. This means that the dishes support small-scale producers and ensure the highest quality ingredients.
Just look at that glorious amatriciana (with the guanciale perfectly crisped, which is how I prefer it).
The hosteria’s philosophy and approach to dishes are modern, but the menu is still largely traditionally Roman.
They make a mean carbonara, with plenty of Pecorino Romano.
But don’t miss the seasonal dishes, such as this vignarola pasta which is only available for a few weeks in spring when the last of the artichokes overlap with the first peas and broad (fava) beans in the markets.
And the prices? Outrageous?
Not. at. all. First courses are around €10 and the second courses run about €16-18.
With an unbeatable location, serious commitment to great food and great prices – it boggles my mind that there is not a line out the door of Grappolo d’Oro every day. While I do recommend reservations, this little gem somehow remains overlooked in the neighborhood.
If you don’t belive me, here is what the 2017 Slow Food Guide has to say about Grappolo d’Oro:
“A modern Hosteria able to satisfy families and gourmets while making the most of Roman products and the surrounding countryside”
Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro
Piazza della Cancelleria, 80
Rome, Italy (Centro Storico)
+39 06 689 7080
Open 12:30 pm – 3pm for lunch and 6:30 pm – 11 pm for dinner.