Forno Campo de’ Fiori

Forno Campo de Fiori Rome pizza bianca

To me, Campo de Fiori is a meeting spot.  It is a place to agree to find each other so that you can move on to somewhere else. It is not that I don’t like the market there, it simply is not my market.  Neighborhood markets are, by definition, in your own neighborhood.  I wouldn’t […]

Tram Depot: Testaccio’s Quirky Coffee Cart

One of the best things about Testaccio is very practical: location. Living here, we are within a short walk to the center, a few minutes from Trastevere, and well connected to everything else by the train, metro, tram and bus lines that skirt the edges of the neighborhood. My preference is always for the tram […]

Infiorata: The Flower Festival of Genzano di Roma

Every year in June, Genzano turns to flowers. Genzano di Roma is a town in the Castelli Romani- the hills outside of Rome.  The infiorata that the town puts on display always follows the weekend after Corpus Christi. In 2019, the infiorata di Genzano will take place from 22-24 June.  The intricate designs take up a […]

Stopping for Saints: Religious Procession in Testaccio

We came back from Castel Gandolfo sunburned and satisfied. Slowly, slowly, we walked back from the metro and towards home. Then we heard the music. Tomorrow is a ponte – a bridge.  That is the day off you take between the weekend and the actual holiday, which is on Tuesday.  So it is a kind […]

Visiting Rome’s Rose Garden

This is it. This is the two weeks of year when the weather is absolutely perfect and the air is full of possibility. Spring in Rome. Everything in Rome has turned green again, and while the pollen is wrecking havoc on allergies, the blooms are glorious. And one of the most glorious places to be […]

Exploring Underground Rome with Rome is Easy

Whenever we have visitors, I direct them to stop by Basilica San Clemente after their trip to the Colosseum. It is incredible, I tell them. 2000 years of history in one building. An ornate church from the Middle Ages, built on top of a 4th century church, built on top of a 1st century home/government building/temple, […]

Things I Have Been Consuming Instead of Blogging

2015 is hectic, in the best possible way.  We have it jammed with travel and even a couple life milestones. So in between all of that, dealing with hackers, and forgetting to pay my hosting service (oops), I have turned to food and drink rather than blogging. So here is where I have been and […]