The plastic sheeting is back. After a summer of heat waves and travel, I really forgot what Rome is likely on a cool and very rainy day. In my corner of Testaccio, where a clothes dryer is an unthinkable and unnecessary luxury, that means plastic sheeting. Clothes do not stop dirtying themselves simply because it […]
24
Sep
Sep
Rome has no shortages of landmarks: Colosseum, Pantheon, St. Peter’s Square, Pyramid of Cestius, Circus Maximus… But one of my favorite landmarks of all is the bright yellow FORNO sign on Via dei Chiavari. Antico Forno Roscioli is a Roman institution. Locals come here for their daily bread, a few brutti ma buoni biscotti, and […]
16
Sep
Sep
With temperatures in the 80s and 90s Fahrenheit for the next four days, Rome seems to be giving summer weather one last hurrah. The estate Romana has been impressive this year. Heat waves and spectacular sunsets have been de riguer. Walking along the Tiber usually offers a few degrees of difference and a tiny bit […]
08
Sep
Sep
The Cliffs of Moher are Ireland’s most popular natural attraction, and you certainly start to feel that while waiting for a spot in the car park. Once you have maneuvered a parking space, crossed the road, and passed the gift shops, you can finally begin your hike up the cliffs. It does not take long to […]
31
Aug
Aug
Rome is ancient. 2,768 years old, to be exact. Rome is old enough to know better, but it acts more like an underachieving child. It hangs out with the wrong crowd, it really doesn’t care enough about making a good impression, and generally partakes in some activities it is going to regret when it is […]
25
Aug
Aug
I hope you like photos, because it is really hard for me to put into words how much I love this place. Santa Maria in Ara Coeli is my favorite church in Rome. It is the most beautiful church in Rome. I mean, if you like brassy and in-your-face beauty. Which I obviously do, because […]
22
Aug
Aug
One of the worst places to cross the street in Rome is in Piazza Venezia. The traffic circle is a major artery for traffic in the historic center, and one of the main bus stops. This means, not only do you have to be cautious of cars merging on and off, you need to watch […]
18
Aug
Aug
I won’t bore you with how hot it was. I won’t bother trying to describe how oppressive the humidity feels when not a single wisp of a breeze can be found. I won’t even begin to recount the discomfort, the lack of mobility, or the will do anything but lie perfectly still with the shutters […]