Pizzeria Ai Marmi in Trastevere

I have a friend who is 7-years-old and has lived in Rome almost all her life. As a nearly lifelong Roman, and at the age when she is a true pizza connoisseur, I trust her judgment. We always meet for dinner at Ai Marmi, her local pizzeria in Trastevere. And since she is 7, we […]

Chocolate Covered Gelato at Frigidarium

chocolate ice cream cone

Fall is in the air, with winter just behind it. This new and welcome layer of crispness has sent me dreaming of seasonal delights. One thing that is always in season? Chocolate covered gelato. Have I mentioned the Irishman? Well, whenever he fancies a pint, I try to persuade him to head to the pub that is […]

Marzapane: Affordable Upscale Dining in Rome

UPDATE November 2018: Chef Alba Esteve Ruiz has left Marzapane. I truly believe that she was probably why this restaurant was so special, and I can’t speak to how the menu has changed since her departure. I went for her cooking and look forward to hearing about her next steps, so I’m in no hurry […]

Pope Socks: A Favorite Roman Souvenir

Updated: October 2023 Deep in my heart I still believe that the best gift ever given to anyone in the history of the world was given by me, to my sister. She was the lucky recipient of a combination bottle opener/toe-nail clipper in the shape of Pope John Paul II’s face. I procured it at […]

How to Get Fat in Naples

I am that girl, and I am not ashamed. I am that girl who brought a tupperware to Naples in my purse because I wanted to stuff myself with pizza and pastries, but obviously I was not going to waste any food should (God forbid) I get full. Don’t worry, one day in Naples is plenty […]