When I first moved to Rome, Amazon was a pipe dream. Yelp? Didn’t yet exist here. (Not that it would have mattered so much, because though I paid handsomely, my internet barely functioned). And just so we are clear on timelines: New York got Eataly before Rome did. All this to say- if you needed […]
Tag Archives: Testaccio
A special visit to Rome’s most beautiful trash pile.
It felt almost warm enough to be spring this weekend, which made me long for outdoor lunches at La Torricella. La Torricella is a restaurant in Testaccio, tucked far enough away from the epicenter of the piazza that is remains a bit off the map. I can sense that changing, but it won’t matter – […]
A pyramid, a cat sanctuary and poets, the cimitero acattolico has it all.
Small. Understated. Cozy. Date night. To me, that is Osteria degli Amici. This modern osteria still looks old school, but has a menu that balances classics with taking a few liberties. We realized one afternoon, as we were walking along, that it had been 6 months since our wedding. Jimmy insisted on gelato. As soon […]
UPDATE AUGUST 2018: Pasticcio is now closed. The location is now PianoAlto. I lived in Los Angeles for 6 years. Some of my best friends still live in LA, but I had to leave before it drove me absolutely crazy. I still go back to DTLA every year to get a taste of the craziness– […]
A few moons ago, there was a little shop in Testaccio that I would call a hole-in-the-wall and mean that in the nicest possible way. 00100 closed but was soon reborn as Trapizzino – named for what was already their signature sandwich. The new Trapizzino shop did away with the pizza al taglio that had […]
When you get right down to it, Roman food is not the choicest. If Italian food is peasant’s food, Roman cuisine is the food of poverty. But cash-strapped Romans have long known how to eat well, and typical cucina Romana transforms lesser cuts of meat into savory dishes. If you are like me and not sure […]