By the time I cross Via Marmorata, I know that I am nearly home. Turning up Via Alessandro Volta, head down and aiming towards the piazza I nearly tripped over the pavement when I saw what had happened to Volpetti Piu. “Huuhhhhwhaaaaaaaat?” I managed, cartoon-style. “What. What is this?” Inside, the old tavola calda, was […]
Category Archives: Rome
The gleaming travertine stairs have reopened after a restoration funded by Bulgari.
There are a lot of places I have liked recently in Rome. Mercato Centrale? Intriguing but not somewhere I really want to hang out. Mazzo? Pretty good, but far. Madre? Ok. But it has been a very long time since a new Rome restaurant really impressed me. La Punta is better than good. The new […]
How to be invited into a Roman kitchen and leave very well fed.
Where to find Sicilian cannoli in the center of Rome.
Apparently no one is going to Santo, yet. For the first 30 minutes of our visit, we were the only people in the recently opened cocktail bar and bistrot. Set back off the busiest piazza in Trastevere, you must wind along Via della Paglia before you finally arrive at the new glass doors that lead […]
Some of Rome’s best food producers can now be found at the train station.
I was a vegetarian from the age of about 7 to 25. In between, I dabbled in veganism while my parents waited for me to out grow my meat-free phase. It was hardly a “phase,” but when I moved to Rome, I dropped it. In Italy (and now in general), I eat meat in moderation. […]








