The Amalfi coast is unlike any place I have been before.
It is unreal.
We were able to take in the cliffs and the sea as we took the ferry from Salerno, but our first port of call was Amalfi.
I have heard many many times that the drive to Amalfi is incredible (if a bit nerve-wrecking), but the approach from sea is just as stunning.
Pastel colored houses are piled on top of one another, as though everyone realized how special this small corner of the world really is.
The resulting jumble is natural.
As we disembarked at the picturesque port, I caught a glimpse of the rows of tour buses.
As we walked into the village, and past the church, crowds eating neon-colored gelato at 11 am blocked our way.
We stood at the bar, drinking our €3 cappuccino, and I did not have the patience to find the charm of the city that looked so sweet from the sea. The swarms of people pushed me away.
We walked back out of the arched gates and along the marina, trying to find some space to breathe.
Which is when we stumbled upon Lo Smeraldino.
Far from the crowds, we settled into a corner table, looking back at Amalfi.
It is a lovely village to see, but not a village to be. (At least for me).
As we waited for lunch, three boys rowed by.
Yes. A much slower pace and wider space was what I was looking for.
We sat down early, in order to have lunch in time to catch the 14:10 ferry back to Salerno, and the 15:25 train back to Rome.
Plenty of time for mozzarella to start, and homemade pasta to follow.
Because Amalfi really is an incredible place. A town you must see.
Just be sure to eat well, because what is beauty on a empty stomach?
Lo Smeraldino
Piazzale dei Protontini, 1
84011 Amalfi
+39 089 871070
Wonderful pics & story! We visited Amalfi March of last year, taking the 2 Euro bus from Salerno. Off-season, the driver went a bit faster than high season, that’s for sure. Ate right on the water at Lido Azzurro, which was just opening up for the season. Barely 60 degrees F. but we basked in the unexpected warmth.
Never got to Positano or further but Amalfi did just fine.
Ciao,
Jay
Lovely! Good to know about the bus– even more affordable than the ferry!