When I moved to Rome, I would drag everyone out to Cipro and force them into a small shop with flaking paint to dine on pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice).
Pizzarium has since gone under a renovation and expansion, but my rule remains unchanged: you can’t leave Rome without trying this pizza.
This rule was put to the test recently when I insisted a friend visit with me before she moved back to the States.
We set out from Testaccio, planning to take the metro.
Unfortunately, the metro broke down at Termini.
So we walked to the bus… but at that point were so close to Villa Borghese that we decided to walk through the park.
At which point we caught a bus that took us not very convincingly closer.
And we walked some more.
When we finally arrived at Pizzarium, nearly two hours later, the “line” (swarm) was out the door.
We took a number and snuck around the corner to share a beer at a simple cafe.
No point in letting a wait ruin our rambling afternoon.
In fact (of course), the wait was more than worth it.
We waded by distraught visitors, clutching Lonely Planet guides to their chests, and made our selection.
From the top:
Lasagna pizza (yes, yes yes).
Polpo e patate (octopus with potatoes – how could we not?)
Porchetta (literally roasted pork stuffed inside potato pizza. We have brains, and tastebuds, so we ordered it).
At Pizzarium, you pay based on weight. You can select as many pieces, of whatever size, but know that you will pay.
That did not stop us from getting more – white truffle with leek and artichoke with ricotta, to be exact.
Are you listening to me?
Unlike any pizza you have had/will have.
If it didn’t take me 1 broke down metro, 1 out of the way bus, and several stretches of long walks, I would be there every day.
But normally, you can just take the A line to Cipro. The pizza place is just outside the metro stop. To the left as you exit.
Via della Meloria, 43,
Open: 11 am to 10 pm.
P.S. If you want to see just how little I really knew about Rome/pizza 6 years ago, you can read my old post. Despite all the mistakes, I am still right that Pizzarium is the best pizza in Rome.