I sometimes hate on Trastevere.
It is easy to see why it is popular: charming, central and well looked after. However, its strength is its weakness, and these virtues also means it is packed with hawkers of knickknacks, over-salted aperitivo buffets and throngs of international explorers.
Sometimes Rome feels like it is divided into two camps- you are either for Trastevere, or against it.
But I am woman enough to admit that the real reason I sometimes hate on Trastevere is not due to any failing on the part of the quartieri. Rather, it is because after 4+ years, I still get lost in the maze of lopsided, intersecting, half circle alleys that pass for streets in this part of town.
I swear, I actually try to find my way, but the second I step off Viale Trastevere, I am essentially instantly lost. No other part of Rome can confuse me the way this neighboring neighborhood can.
I will say this- if you have to be lost in Trastevere, December is not a bad time to do it.
I feel the same way about Trastevere. And I didn’t even realize that the whole quieter/cuter section on the other side of Viale Trastevere exists for ages!