It is not very common to eat food on the go in Italy. However, the exception to this sit down rule is absolutely pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice).
One of the most beloved places in Rome for a quick pizza fix is La Renella in Trastevere.
The narrow shop on Via del Moro has an extended glass counter filled with long pizzas straight out of the oven.
La Renella is not the type of place where you take the whole pizza for yourself (unless you are really, really hungry, I guess). Pizza al taglio is often called pizza by the slice, but it really means cut pizza. Simply select the kind of pizza(s) you want, and indicate how much they should cut off for you.
That makes La Renella the perfect stop for a mid-afternoon merenda (snack), or you can order multiple kinds of pizza to taste the different flavors and build a more substantial meal.
It is hard to go wrong because all the pizza is made fresh throughout the day.
In fact, if you walk past the pizza display, there is a counter where you can sit and eat while watching the pizza be prepared.
La Renella has been in operation since 1870. The forno is a pizzeria, panificio (bread maker) and biscotteria (cookie maker) – but I tend to stick to the pizza.
If, however, you want to skip the view into the forno and crowd all together, there is also a small take away window where you can order sandwiches made with pizza bianca. I have to admit that I prefer the pizza bianca across Ponte Sisto at Forno Campo de’ Fiori.
But I am totally partial to La Renella’s potato and sausage pizza.
Trastevere is an extremely popular part of Rome at all hours. La Renella is busy during the day with locals stopping in for a speedy lunch or to pick up fresh bread. In the evenings and late at night, it feeds the crowds who come to the neighborhood to grab drinks. In a neighborhood better known for its tourist traps, La Renella stands out for its long history and quality.
Via del Moro, 15
00153, Rome, Italy (Trastevere)
Open from 7 am – 2 am everyday (or 3 am on Friday and Saturday nights).