The best thing about Rome is that there is no way you have seen it all. After 15 years, I am still uncovering secret corners of the city. All it takes is a bit of curiosity (and sometime perseverance to actually speak to the right human) and you can gain access to incredible unexpected treasures. One example is Rome’s Antica Spezieria di Santa Maria della Scala – the oldest pharmacy in the Eternal City.
Found a short walk away from the busy squares in Trastevere, this “pharmacy of the popes”—dates back to the early 17th century. It was originally founded by monks as a place to prepare herbal medicines for their monastery and the surrounding community. Over time, its reputation grew, and even the Vatican began sourcing remedies from this remarkable apothecary.
If you pass by the street level, you will find a modern-day pharmacy. You can buy face creams and cold medicine and never really remark on the interior décor. However, a look at the historic pharmacy requires booking a private visit to the first floor.
Walking up the stairs and into the Antica Spezieria is like stepping back in time. The interior has been meticulously preserved, and is lined with wooden cabinets, antique glass jars, and antique scales once used to measure out centuries-old concoctions. The original laboratory and alchemy room still contain equipment for grinding herbs, distilling essential oils, and preparing medicinal tinctures.
The old Santa Maria della Scala pharmacy also has a famous collection of 18th-century medical texts and remedies to treat common ailments. The monks who founded this healing space relied on natural ingredients such as lavender, and rosemary, and their formulas were so effective that popes and noble families of Rome entrusted them with their health.
These days, the monks carry on part of the tradition – still using herbs. However, now you can buy distilled spirits rather than medicines.
How to Visit
Unlike major tourist attractions in Rome, this pharmacy remains relatively unknown to most visitors. The building where the pharmacy is located is attached to the church of Santa Maria della Scala and is still a part of the monastery. That means that visits are by appointment only and typically include a guided tour that takes you through the historic rooms.
To arrange a visit, you can contact the monastery in advance at +39 06 580 6233. The entrance is discreet, so keep an eye out for the Santa Maria della Scala church, and you’ll find the pharmacy door adjacent to the church.
And if you like finding secret spots like this, you can find more suggestions under Things to Do in Rome.
Antica Spezieria di Santa Maria della Scala
Piazza della Scala, 23
Trastevere, Rome
