Easy Day Trip from Rome: Orvieto

May 13 2012

A girl can only take so much of Rome’s noise before the urge to spend a Sunday outside of the city begins to take hold.  An old stand by for an easy day trip from Rome is Orvieto.  The Umbrian hilltop town is a short train ride away and offers a completely different feel from the Italian capital.

Catch a train in the morning, walk out of the station in Orvieto and hop on the funicular (1 euro each way).  Exiting and turning left will offer a gorgeous view of the surrounding valleys (even on cloudy days with only a phone to capture the scene).

You can follow the majority of the crowd up the main cobblestone street.  If you’re hungry, look right down via S. Leonardo and you’ll find Trattoria del Moro.

Settle in for the some vino and paparadelle al cinghiale- pasta with wild boar ragu that’s popular in Umbria and Tuscany.

Fully fueled, set off once more towards the center of town for Orvieto’s most famous landmark: the cathedral.

The cathedral took nearly 300 years to finish. Three. Hundred. Years.  It’s worth a looksie- trust me.

After a gander at the ruly impressive church, it’s time to check out Orvieto’s other claim to fame: wine

Orvieto was famous for it’s wine even before it was famous for it’s 14th century cathedral.  Around 1100, a German bishop was making his way to Rome. But priorities are important, and so he sent a scout ahead to identify taverns with good wine to ensure a pleasant journey.  The story goes that the scout would write “Est” (Latin: “This is it”) on the outside of taverns with decent vino.

The scout was so blown away the first time he tried Orvieto’s signature white wine that he wrote “EST! EST! EST!”.  His boss found the tavern and agreed.  The bishop never made it to Rome, and spent the rest of his life enjoying the Umbrian white.

After a bottle of Orvieto Classico, it’s time to explore the streets of the village.

Each of those houses has a cellar underneath, carved into the volcanic rock of the hillside.  The caves have been used for everything from  wells, to olive oil presses, to pigeon coops and bomb shelters, depending on the century.

Most of the cellars and tunnels are private but you can take a tour of a few if you want to see Orvieto from below.

English language tours cost 6 euro, and leave from the same piazza that the cathedral dominates.

But my favorite thing about Orvieto is that you don’t really need an itinerary.  The town is well suited for a day of meandering, eating and drinking.

Share

2 responses so far

Italian Cheese, Made to Please

May 08 2012

Italian cheese may be delicious but it can also be pretty damn cute.

Ponies and pacifiers spotted at Volpetti on a Rome food tour.

Share

3 responses so far

Crossing the Street in Rome

Apr 23 2012

Walking home the other day, I panicked when I was about to cross the street and did a 180 back onto the curb.

This used to happen a lot more often because I was/am  terrified of Roman traffic “rules”.

A friend once gave me some advice about crossing the street in Rome:
1. Follow a Roman. there’s safety in numbers, so cross with others when possible.
2. Babies are a good call, but cars won’t always pause for strollers.
3. Nuns are a sure thing. Drivers always stop for nuns.

If there are no nuns in the vicinity, I have my own theory about crossing the street in Rome:

Romans are in a huge hurry. A car will not slow down and wave you across the street.  The driver is in a hurry- did I already mention that? BUT the one thing that would slow them down more then letting you cross is hitting you.  Wait for a pause in traffic, and go.  Don’t change your speed because they’re basically deciding if they should speed up and cut in front of you, or swerve behind you.  Walk like you own the place.

But seriously- please be careful! Hit-and-run drivers are called pirati della strada, or (because I love literal translations) “street pirates”.

Share

4 responses so far

Italy for Easter: Pasqua con chi vuoi

Apr 09 2012

There’s a saying in Italy: Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi!

Which in English basically means: Christmas with your family, Easter with whomever you want!

One of the great things about living in the center of the Catholic universe is a four-day Easter weekend.  And with no family obligations, we skipped town and hopped on a train out of Termini:

We left early and got to observe spring in Lazio through the fog and blur of the train window.

And ultimately, stepped off the train in Siena. Up the tower to stare at the houses and churches that looked like toys from so high up.

But then it was back to Rome, which is truly beautiful this time of year:

*My computer is broken :( so apologies for phone-only pictures.

Share

8 responses so far

Construction in Italy

Mar 31 2012

Who needs a saw horse?

When you have motorinos!

Share

3 responses so far

Day trip from Rome: Naples

Mar 25 2012

I love Naples. Sometimes Rome pretends to be a little fancy-pants, when it is in fact a little bit insane.  There is none of that in Naples. Naples is straight-up unapologetic, in-your-face chaos.

I was in Naples this time last year, on Palm Sunday, and it seemed to be a free for all.  The shops were closed but the streets were full of motorinos, carrying entire families or three grown men at a time. No helmets, just lots of wheelies and honking.  I can’t get enough of it and I am constantly trying to convince people to take a Saturday trip with me.

Naples is a bit of tiring day trip from Rome, but it is doable if you don’t have much time to spare.  The slow train (which we take because we still have a poor-student mentality when it comes to travel) only costs 10 euro each way, but takes nearly 4 hours.  Catch it at 7:30 am, and you walk out of the station in Naples just in time for the pizza ovens to be nearly ready.

First, swing by the Porta Nolana fish market.  There is lots of yelling and squid throwing and fried dough selling.  I was too intimidated to pull out my camera, so here is a picture of fruit truck at the end of the mercato.

Then head back towards the main drag (Corso Umberto I), and wander over to Da Michele to get in line.

I honestly wouldn’t bother with the Margarita, even though this is Naple’s most iconic pizza.  Go for the marinara.

Then back to wandering the streets and piazzas in the center of the city.

From there, you might be lucky enough to stumble upon a creepy doll hospital.

Or a stash of, what our friends the Pizza Pilgrims, have taught us in the best damn pizza-makin’ flour around.

And, of course, you will find the presepe.  In addition to pizza, Naples is famous for its presepe, or cribs.  Christmas manger scenes that sometimes take a decidedly modern detour.

i.e. with plenty of figures like Berlusconi, Gaddafi, and Sarkozy, to go alongside baby Jesus.

But if you continue through the city, you can make your way up to this street:

And hop on the funicular.  (Side note: After 26 years of speaking English, I am always surprised to find words I don’t know, like funicular. I am 98% sure I have never heard this word before.  “You mean that tram thing that goes up the steep hill? It’s not a gondola? Are you serious?”)

Anyways, for about 2 euro, you can buy a 90 min ticket for this crazy-named tram, that will take you up to a much quieter Neapolitan neighborhood with an amazing view.

Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples, anyone?

You also get a birds eye view of the sprawl.  Suddenly, your day of constantly being lost is small alleys makes much more sense.  There is only one straight street in Naples.  Everywhere else twists and turns and angles to take you in a direction you didn’t exactly intend to go.

Back down the hill you go on the friendly funicular.

Make your way back towards the station and stop in for one more pizza to-go at Da Michele.

You’ll have four hours on the train back to Rome to digest.

A final note, and I am by no means an expert… Naples has a rather unsavory reputation.  I’ve never felt threatened there, but I also don’t wander down unknown streets at night.  Be observant, be alert, and you should be fine.

Share

5 responses so far

Driving a Scooter in Rome

Mar 08 2012

Ah, Rome, sweet Rome.  Thinly veiled chaos, full of motor bikes and trash (among a few other things).

I don’t freelance write any more, but I have had the great fortune to contribute to some lovely websites and publications. Unfortunately, the freelance life is full of turmoil and pieces you write for new publications on spec (helpful hint: don’t agree to do that, ever) never see the light of day.  Here is one such piece:

Driving a Scooter in Rome

The road to obtaining an Italian drivers license is long and onerous.  The theoretical test has the reputation of being nearly impassable and it can take would-be drivers years to navigate the bureaucratic red tape that accompanies the quest for an official license.

With such strict controls, one might imagine that Roman drivers are the epitome of rule-following road users. But few statements could be farther from the truth, especially when it comes to driving a scooter.

The one rule you have to learn about taking to the streets of Rome on a scooter is: rules are meant to be broken.

Roman motorini often swerve into oncoming traffic to beat slower moving vehicles.  Moped drivers see red lights as more of a suggestion than a rule, and believe crosswalks and sidewalks are just as well suited for scooters as they are for pedestrians. Looking for a designated scooter lane? Any space between two cars is fair game.

Rome ranks among the cities with the most registered scooters in the world.  With congested traffic and little parking, it’s no wonder that the motorino has found such a devoted following in the Eternal City.

The Italian love affair with the motorino reaches back to 1946 when Piaggio first debuted the Vespa to journalists in Rome.  From there, Piaggio sold 2,500 Vespas in 1947, more than 10,000 in 1948, 20,000 in 1949, and over 60,000 in 1950.  Sales exploded in 1952 when Audrey Hepburn joined Gregory Peck for a Vespa ride past the Spanish Steps in Roman Holiday. While the iconic Vespa can still be found on any street, Romans ride a range of modern scooters from brands such as Aprilia, Yamaha, Suzuki and Honda.

You have to be at least 14 years old to ride a scooter in Rome, and it is not uncommon to see young teenagers zipping along through traffic at breakneck speeds.  However, the Roman affinity for motorini extends far beyond youthful rebellion and the scooter is the transportation mode of choice for many more mature commuters.  You’ll spot many riders impeccably dressed in tailored suits on their way to work.

To rent and ride a motorino in Rome, all you need is a valid drivers license, a sense of adventure and a good dose of common sense.  Watch out for wet cobblestones, potholes, restricted traffic areas and other drivers.

You can drive a motorino up to 125cc with no special license required.  Helmets, however, are very much required, as is proper paperwork, so confirm the presence of both with your rental agency before you drive away.

To hire a scooter in Rome, try some of these rental agencies, with one major disclaimer:  I have never tried any of them, because the idea of riding a scooter in the center of Rome without having been born and raised here seems absolutely crazy to me.

Barberini Scooters for Rent
Offers guided tours as well as a variety of individual rental options
Via della Purificazione, 84
+39 06 4885485
www.rentscooter.it

Baci e Bici
Just steps for the Colosseum, the rental agency offers bicycles in addition to scooters and hosts daily tours.
Via del Viminale, 5
+39 06 4828443

http://www.bicibaci.com/?lang=en

OnRoad
Offers hourly rates as well as rentals by the day, and can even deliver the scooter to your hotel.
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 204
+39 06 4815669
www.scooterhire.it

Share

5 responses so far

A Weekend in Madrid

Feb 11 2012

The weather is a bit miserable out and I’m missing a certain Irishman, so my thoughts are drifting to a lovely weekend getaway to Madrid.

We headed off to Spain in January as part of a belated Christmas celebration.

In high school, my favorite class was Spanish Literature.  Lorca, Cervantes… and now cute tiled street names to match. In love.

Also in love with the food pickings. Huevos Manchegos, where have you been all my life?

Mainly, we wandered. Despite the cold weather, Madrid is a lovely city by day.

And by night.

But we avoided a lot of chill by staying indoors and exploring the incredible art scene Madrid had to offer.

Amazing. I can’t even tell which museum was my favorite.  We saw Francis Bacon, Rothko, Lucien Freud, Goya. Oh, the Goyas!

And we also took shelter in tapas bar.  My favorite was conveniently located next to our hotel (Ingles Hotel). Viva Madrid had a modern feel, mixed with classic tiles, and staff that came to recognize us even during a short stay.

I mean, who could say no to more Jamón ibérico?

Share

One response so far

More Snow in Rome

Feb 10 2012

It’s snowing in Rome… again.

Now, I’m no expert when it comes to winter stuff (or weather related issues of any kind) but the white stuff appears to be falling rather heavily from the sky.

That means the Eternal City will grind to a halt tomorrow.

Closed due to snow

We’re “enjoying” the second major snowfall of the year from the comfort of the couch, and sending best wishes to a certain family miles away on a difficult day.

Shelter from the storm

 

Share

One response so far

Does it Snow in Rome?

Feb 06 2012

I would like to draw your attention to two main points of interest:

1. I was wrong. The snow days were perfectly justified.  It started snowing/sleeting at about noon on Friday.  While it really only snowed Friday night, it has been icy and miserable and we were told to stay home Monday as well.

2. Moon boots are totally still a thing here, and I love it!

I woke up early Saturday to a faint thumping sound. I rushed to the window and everything was covered in white.  The thuds were some poor soul trying to push the snow off his car at 7 in the morning.

I did the sane thing, weighed my options and got dressed in as many layers as I could manage to trudge around taking pictures before it all melted.

It snowed in Rome in 2010, but this time around it was much more impressive.

I pretty much had the city to myself, which is just the way I like it.

Trudging rewarded with a view of the Colosseum in the snow.

The Pantheon in the snow.

Trevi Fountain covered in snow.

After doing the Cavour-Colosseo-Pantheon-Trevi-Santa Maria Maggiore loop, I was tired and cold and over it.

I took shelter in the only open cafe, but have you ever tried to pay for a cappuccino e cornetto with a 20 euro note on a snow day? Let me tell you- it does not go over well.

Share

12 responses so far

Older posts »