When it comes to gelato in Rome – I fall solidly into the modern camp. I am completely enamored with the contemporary makers who treat gelato like an art. That being said, there are some old school masters that absolutely know a thing or two about frozen treats. One of the most iconic is Fassi. […]
A new program launched in Rome in August has been enthusiastically embraced by the public. The recycling initiative accepts plastic bottles in exchange for free ATAC public transportation tickets, which are good on the city’s buses and metros. Commuters can bring their plastic bottles to three metro stations to use specially designated machines to earn […]
Officially known Rione Monti, Monti prides itself on being Rome’s very first neighborhood because it has existed since ancient times and is listed as Rione I in the city’s list of numbered municipalities. Today, the central district is a mix of bohemian boutiques, contemporary street food spots, trendy bars, and traditional artisan workshops. Bordered on […]
To many visitors, One of Testaccio’s most unexpected landmarks is the ex Mattatoio – the old slaughterhouse. But this hulking, half-abandoned urban relics is exactly why Testaccio exists. The mattatoio was inaugurated in 1890, replacing the slaughterhouse that was located in Piazza del Popolo. As the population of Rome grew, it simply wasn’t prudent to […]
I moved to Rome in September of 2010, so the month has long had a special place in my heart. Though there are thunderstorms in the forecast for the first few days, it is usually one of the best months to come to Rome. It is also the time of the rientro, when the city […]
One of the things that really confounded me when I first moved to Rome was the lack of thrift stores. I could not figure out where you could go to buy anything used. I am a bit savvier now and love the occasional wander through the weird world that is the mercato dell’usato and even […]
There are meals and then there are meals in Puglia, and you never forget those. If you happen to be eating at Cibus, then your meal may turn into a four-hour affair, which leaves you extremely full, ridiculously happy, and filled with a bittersweet nostalgia as soon as the epic lunch has slowly wound down. […]
Did I ever tell you about the time I moved to Rome, went to the wine festival in Marino the next day, and found out that wine really does come out of water fountains in Italy? (Sometimes). Regardless of when you visit, it is always a good time for a Rome wine tasting. I think […]








