Update 2019: Unfortunately, Za’atar has closed permanently. When it comes to Roman food, Testaccio is without a doubt the neighborhood you want to be in. In many ways, Testaccio gave rise to some of Rome’s most beloved culinary traditions – particularly offal based dishes known as the quinto quarto (fifth quarter). While the neighborhood is […]
Tag Archives: Testaccio
14
Mar
Mar
It is irresponsible to order gricia for lunch, and yet every time I find myself at Trattoria Da Oio a Casa Mia, I am powerless to resist. It arrives piled with pecorino and a dusting of black pepper applied with a heavy hand. The pasta is slicked with rendered fat from the crisped guanciale. It […]
10
Mar
Mar
The sign outside of Oasi della Birra reads “Palombi Enoteca,” but rest assured that you have arrived at the oasis of beer. The bottle shop turned bar and restaurant is one of Testaccio’s most popular watering holes. Set on the edge of the piazza (main square), the bar has a list of hundreds of beers […]
27
Jan
Jan
What are you doing tomorrow? I suggest you get out of bed, make some coffee, brave the (not really bad at all) Roman weather, and make your way down to Testaccio market. Do any shopping you need for the next few days, then decide if you want a panino from Mordi e Vai, or a […]
11
Jan
Jan
Testaccio is a neighborhood divided. Everyone seems to be able to agree on the most important thing in Roman life: football. As a whole, the district supports A.S. Roma. However, over the second most important thing in Roman life? Pizza? No one can agree on the best neighborhood pizzeria. I fall into the Da Remo […]
25
Nov
Nov
There is a lot happening on Via Alessandro Volta right now. Recently, it was the re-imagining of the old tavola calda into Taverna Volpetti. Then last month a new shop popped up a few doors down. Cheerful Assemblea has a window front that is too whimsical to resist. “Is that the shop with all the […]
24
Oct
Oct
By the time I cross Via Marmorata, I know that I am nearly home. Turning up Via Alessandro Volta, head down and aiming towards the piazza I nearly tripped over the pavement when I saw what had happened to Volpetti Piu. “Huuhhhhwhaaaaaaaat?” I managed, cartoon-style. “What. What is this?” Inside, the old tavola calda, was […]
05
Sep
Sep
When it comes to carbs, I do not mess around. And neither does Artenio, which is exactly why we get along just fine. With a popular stand in the Testaccio Market, Artenio is everyone’s preferred bread man. Don’t believe me? Check out Katie’s video introduction. But it is not just bread. Artenio makes pastries stuffed […]