Category Archives: Rome

Trapizzino: Rome’s Best Cheap Eats

Trapizzino pizza sandwich

A few moons ago, there was a little shop in Testaccio that I would call a hole-in-the-wall and mean that in the nicest possible way. 00100 closed but was soon reborn as Trapizzino – named for what was already their signature sandwich. The new Trapizzino shop did away with the pizza al taglio that had […]

Gelato in Trastevere: Fatamorgana

This time of year, everything starts to seem over the top which is why it is critical to remember that sometimes things that are small are also things that are very important. Gelato, for example, is a small important thing. I prefer cones to cups, and smalls to bigs, when it comes to gelato.  I […]

Unexpected Rome: Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri

Ok, I get it. A church is not exactly “unexpected” in Rome. However, Santa Maria deli Angeli e dei Martiri is not your average Roman church. Sure it has vaulted ceilings, gorgeous frescoes and adorned domes. But the Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels and of the Martyrs was designed by Michelangelo who died […]

Il Goccetto: Rome’s Coziest Wine Bar

Living most of my life in Southern California, I never really experienced what people like to call “winter.” I remember being so jealous of people who could actually wear pea coats. Pea coats were the cutest! Since moving to Rome and acquiring my own winter accessories arsenal, I get it. Winter is cold. All those […]

Pizzeria Ai Marmi in Trastevere

I have a friend who is 7-years-old and has lived in Rome almost all her life. As a nearly lifelong Roman, and at the age when she is a true pizza connoisseur, I trust her judgment. We always meet for dinner at Ai Marmi, her local pizzeria in Trastevere. And since she is 7, we […]

Chocolate Covered Gelato at Frigidarium

chocolate ice cream cone

Fall is in the air, with winter just behind it. This new and welcome layer of crispness has sent me dreaming of seasonal delights. One thing that is always in season? Chocolate covered gelato. Have I mentioned the Irishman? Well, whenever he fancies a pint, I try to persuade him to head to the pub that is […]