Category Archives: Rome

Goodbye, Roman Summer

With temperatures in the 80s and 90s Fahrenheit for the next four days, Rome seems to be giving summer weather one last hurrah. The estate Romana has been impressive this year.  Heat waves and spectacular sunsets have been de riguer. Walking along the Tiber usually offers a few degrees of difference and a tiny bit […]

Concerts in Teatro Marcello

Rome is ancient. 2,768 years old, to be exact. Rome is old enough to know better, but it acts more like an underachieving child. It hangs out with the wrong crowd, it really doesn’t care enough about making a good impression, and generally partakes in some activities it is going to regret when it is […]

Church: Rome-style.

I hope you like photos, because it is really hard for me to put into words how much I love this place. Santa Maria in Ara Coeli is my favorite church in Rome. It is the most beautiful church in Rome. I mean, if you like brassy and in-your-face beauty. Which I obviously do, because […]

Coffee with a Colosseum View

I won’t bore you with how hot it was. I won’t bother trying to describe how oppressive the humidity feels when not a single wisp of a breeze can be found. I won’t even begin to recount the discomfort, the lack of mobility, or the will do anything but lie perfectly still with the shutters […]

Forno Campo de’ Fiori

Forno Campo de Fiori Rome pizza bianca

To me, Campo de Fiori is a meeting spot.  It is a place to agree to find each other so that you can move on to somewhere else. It is not that I don’t like the market there, it simply is not my market.  Neighborhood markets are, by definition, in your own neighborhood.  I wouldn’t […]

Tram Depot: Testaccio’s Quirky Coffee Cart

One of the best things about Testaccio is very practical: location. Living here, we are within a short walk to the center, a few minutes from Trastevere, and well connected to everything else by the train, metro, tram and bus lines that skirt the edges of the neighborhood. My preference is always for the tram […]

Stopping for Saints: Religious Procession in Testaccio

We came back from Castel Gandolfo sunburned and satisfied. Slowly, slowly, we walked back from the metro and towards home. Then we heard the music. Tomorrow is a ponte – a bridge.  That is the day off you take between the weekend and the actual holiday, which is on Tuesday.  So it is a kind […]