As I was leaving Piazza Navona, I glanced over my shoulder for one last look at the Roman square in the evening light.
I spotted a chestnut seller doing the same.
In the colder months (and, bizarrely, also in the warmer months now) you will find street sellers on Rome’s corners selling freshly roasted chestnuts to snack on.
Chestnuts are castagne, but roasted chestnuts are called caldarroste – which basically is a combination of the words for hot and roasted.
This year, there is no Christmas fair in the famous piazza.
The carousel has been set up, but the stalls have not reappeared.
But the chestnut sellers always make it feel festive – like it really might finally be Christmastime in Rome.