Checchino’s wood paneled dining room feels frozen in time.
And let’s not forget that I am a sucker for crisp linens and retro swiveling barstools studded with copper nails.
White jacketed waiters go through an elaborate show of wheeling around a small table and pouring wine through a series of unneeded but atmosphere-enhancing steps.
With the wine poured, we started with a tortino alla birra.
A classic restaurant calls for classic Roman dishes.
Carbonara for him:
Amatriciana for me:
(The amatriciana was a clear winner).
Located across the street from the old slaughterhouse, Checchino specializes in even more traditional Roman dishes based around offal. They even have an offal tasting menu, if you are up for it. The menu degustazione storico includes trotter salad, pasta with lamb intestines (pajata), and oxtail.
The 19th century restaurant is about as pricey as you are going to get in Testaccio. For us, Checchino is the occasional treat when we want to step back in time.
Open: Tuesday to Saturday from 12:30 pm – 3:00 pm; and 8:00 pm – 12:00 am. Lunch only on Sundays.