I love November in Tuscany.
The days can be rainy, or they can be surprisingly sunny, though always with a chill that nips straight through and makes you long for hearty soups and evenings by the fire.
But when you want to get out of the house, the best substitute for a fire in the hearth may well be terme- natural hot spas.
Bagno Vignoni is a village in San Quirico d’Orcia. It is a town of terme in the province of Siena, not far from Pienza.
As you can see, the town is so known for terme that even the main piazza is a pool of hot water.
We chose Hotel Posta Marcucci and bought a day pass to take a dip in their massive natural hot spring pools.
The pools are tiered, so if you can’t stand the heat, you can head to one of the lower pools where the water has cooled to a temperate 28C. The higher pools are around 38C. Perfect for gray November days.
After we worked up an appetite by, well, floating around and relaxing, we explored the tiny town.
As luck would have it, we didn’t have to wander far before we stumbled upon Il Loggiato and decided to stop for lunch.
After three years in Italy, this was one of my favorite meals. Unsalted Tuscan bread, new olive oil, polenta, and mushroom soup.
I don’t even LIKE mushrooms, but this was one of the best things I have ever eaten.
So here’s to chilly days and hearty Italian soups to keep you warm after a tough day of terme. Cheers!
Via delle Sorgenti, 36
Bagno Vignoni, Italia