When I first moved to Rome, Amazon was a pipe dream. Yelp? Didn’t yet exist here. (Not that it would have mattered so much, because though I paid handsomely, my internet barely functioned). And just so we are clear on timelines: New York got Eataly before Rome did. All this to say- if you needed […]
Search Results for: testaccio
A special visit to Rome’s most beautiful trash pile.
It felt almost warm enough to be spring this weekend, which made me long for outdoor lunches at La Torricella. La Torricella is a restaurant in Testaccio, tucked far enough away from the epicenter of the piazza that is remains a bit off the map. I can sense that changing, but it won’t matter – […]
When you get right down to it, Roman food is not the choicest. If Italian food is peasant’s food, Roman cuisine is the food of poverty. But cash-strapped Romans have long known how to eat well, and typical cucina Romana transforms lesser cuts of meat into savory dishes. If you are like me and not sure […]
One of the best things about Testaccio is very practical: location. Living here, we are within a short walk to the center, a few minutes from Trastevere, and well connected to everything else by the train, metro, tram and bus lines that skirt the edges of the neighborhood. My preference is always for the tram […]
We came back from Castel Gandolfo sunburned and satisfied. Slowly, slowly, we walked back from the metro and towards home. Then we heard the music. Tomorrow is a ponte – a bridge. That is the day off you take between the weekend and the actual holiday, which is on Tuesday. So it is a kind […]
Flavio al Velavevodetto is an excellent Rome restaurant built into the side of Monte Testaccio.
I was gone for a few weeks last summer. It seems that was all it took for the neighborhood to change. Screaming down Via Marmorata in a taxi on way home from the airport, I caught a glimpse of a modern space. Despite my attempts to rubberneck, I could not tell what it was or […]