It is irresponsible to order gricia for lunch, and yet every time I find myself at Trattoria Da Oio a Casa Mia, I am powerless to resist. It arrives piled with pecorino and a dusting of black pepper applied with a heavy hand. The pasta is slicked with rendered fat from the crisped guanciale. It […]
Search Results for: testaccio
10
Mar
Mar
The sign outside of Oasi della Birra reads “Palombi Enoteca,” but rest assured that you have arrived at the oasis of beer. The bottle shop turned bar and restaurant is one of Testaccio’s most popular watering holes. Set on the edge of the piazza (main square), the bar has a list of hundreds of beers […]
08
May
May
A traditional cheese and meat shop in the Testaccio Market, run by Enzo and Lina. The couple have a great selection of fresh and aged cheeses.
27
Jan
Jan
What are you doing tomorrow? I suggest you get out of bed, make some coffee, brave the (not really bad at all) Roman weather, and make your way down to Testaccio market. Do any shopping you need for the next few days, then decide if you want a panino from Mordi e Vai, or a […]
11
Jan
Jan
Testaccio is a neighborhood divided. Everyone seems to be able to agree on the most important thing in Roman life: football. As a whole, the district supports A.S. Roma. However, over the second most important thing in Roman life? Pizza? No one can agree on the best neighborhood pizzeria. I fall into the Da Remo […]
19
Dec
Dec
We are crazy lucky to live close to the Testaccio market. Yes, it is a market in flux – with traditional vendors operating along side more modern ready-to-eat stalls. Le mani in pasta is both and it straddles this divide exceptionally well. The stall in Mercato Testaccio sells fresh pasta made by hand using organic flour […]
25
Nov
Nov
There is a lot happening on Via Alessandro Volta right now. Recently, it was the re-imagining of the old tavola calda into Taverna Volpetti. Then last month a new shop popped up a few doors down. Cheerful Assemblea has a window front that is too whimsical to resist. “Is that the shop with all the […]
24
Oct
Oct
By the time I cross Via Marmorata, I know that I am nearly home. Turning up Via Alessandro Volta, head down and aiming towards the piazza I nearly tripped over the pavement when I saw what had happened to Volpetti Piu. “Huuhhhhwhaaaaaaaat?” I managed, cartoon-style. “What. What is this?” Inside, the old tavola calda, was […]