naples | An American in Rome

Il Presepio- Christmas Cribs in Naples

Dec 24 2012 Published by L'americana under Life in Italy

We are gearing up to celebrate our third Christmas in Rome. While we have propped up a sad imitation tree that did not really survive the year well in the attic, many homes around us have set up ‘il presepio’.

Il presepio is a Christmas manager scene that is set up in a central location in the house, or in the piazza, or in St. Peter’s Square right next to the big tree.

You can go with Joseph, Mary and Jesus, or you can glitz it up a bit with motorized accessory characters.

Whatever your presepio style, the best place to pick up figurines in Naples. From Wise Men, to pizza makers, Naples has everything to meet your manager needs.

You can go with a simple scene, or a double decker if you really want to pack in the figurines.

Figurines from politicians to pop culture idols.

But don’t forget the baby Jesus!

Buon Natale!

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Pasta Fritta: Frittatine in Napoli

Jul 17 2012 Published by L'americana under Italian Food, Pizza

We have friends visiting from California right now, and it seems that every time I suggest something that they just *have* to eat, it’s fried.

Example: “Hey guys! Let’s go get cheesey pasta in a bowl made of fried cheese!”

“Hey guys! Let’s go get the best fried fish in the world! Ever! It’s by this little church“

“Hey guys! Let’s go get fried balls of rice and tomato sauce!” (i.e. suppli’)

Actually, the first time I ever had a suppli, I spit it out and then warned my North American colleagues to stay away from them. Now I get them as an afternoon snack.

Anyways, since moving to Rome, I’ve become much more open to eating fried flowers stuffed with anchioves and whatnot. But in Naples, I was confronted by an unfamiliar goodie: fried pasta.

My first experience with pasta fritta was at Il Presidente. (In Italy, it’s common to start off a meal at a pizzaria with a fried appetizer, followed by each person scarfing down their very own full sized pizza).

It was… well, it was fried, so of course it was good.

My across the aisle neighbor on a recent train ride en route for a Naples day trip, explained that pasta fritta was often made to be brought along on picnics. Thus eliminating the need to cart along bowls and forks, while increasing the deliciousness quotient of the pasta. Science: can’t argue with it.

While Il Presidente was good, I prefer to get my pasta fritta (or frittatine) from a vendor in the fish market. It’s near the train station, if you’re feeling adventurous.

Porta Nolana Fish Market
Fried dough guy, near the end
Every day, 8 am – 2 pm
Naples

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A Weekend Retreat to Procida

May 27 2012 Published by L'americana under Travel

Last year for my birthday, I was given a surprise party, booked a ticket to California, and then scampered off to Ischia.

This year for my birthday, I had a delicious pajama brunch party, booked a ticket to Budapest, and then scampered off the Procida.

Procida and Ischia are Capri’s less famous (and less crowded) sister islands in the bay of Naples.

I basically spent our entire weekend on Procida walking around going: “omggggg, sooooo cuuuute”.

I also managed to work, “Did you know that this is where they filmed Il Postino??” into conversation about 10 times in 48 hours.

I watched Il Postino in 11th grade Spanish class (yeah, I know, but the Spanish link is there, trust me). I couldn’t believe the place was real and I was there.

I also managed to mention several times that The Talented Mr. Ripley was also filmed on Procida. This was admitted to conversation fewer times because I find that movie pretty creepy.

Camera-ready Procida is easy to get to from Naples. Just hop on a 35 minute ferry (for about 15 euro, depending on the time/company)

The streets are narrow and winding. Sidewalks can be hard to come by but hat’s fine because life on the island is pretty slow. Rather than getting mowed down by scooters like you would in Naples or Rome, you’re likely to see friends cruising side-by-side to have a chat.

You don’t need a car to get around here. You can walk around the entire perimeter of the island in less than 4 hours. When I spotted this part of the island from a beach on the other side, it was only a 20 minute walk to get there.

Procida can’t be done in a day from Rome. It’s too much to get to Naples and then get the ferry. Besides, it’s worth some more of your time. We did it in a weekend, leaving Rome at a godforsaken hour (5:45 am Saturday) and returning by 10 pm on Sunday.

Exhausted, but refreshed.

Procida is famous for its lemons and our hotel even gave us a bag to take home. Try the sorbetto while you’re there, but in terms of other eateries, check out Katie Parla’s guide to the island.

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Day trip from Rome: Naples

Mar 25 2012 Published by L'americana under Day Trips from Rome, Italian Food, Life in Italy, Pizza

I love Naples. Sometimes Rome pretends to be a little fancy-pants, when it is in fact a little bit insane. There is none of that in Naples. Naples is straight-up unapologetic, in-your-face chaos.

I was in Naples this time last year, on Palm Sunday, and it seemed to be a free for all. The shops were closed but the streets were full of motorinos, carrying entire families or three grown men at a time. No helmets, just lots of wheelies and honking. I can’t get enough of it and I am constantly trying to convince people to take a Saturday trip with me.

Naples is a bit of tiring day trip from Rome, but it is doable if you don’t have much time to spare. The slow train (which we take because we still have a poor-student mentality when it comes to travel) only costs 10 euro each way, but takes nearly 4 hours. Catch it at 7:30 am, and you walk out of the station in Naples just in time for the pizza ovens to be nearly ready.

First, swing by the Porta Nolana fish market. There is lots of yelling and squid throwing and fried dough selling. I was too intimidated to pull out my camera, so here is a picture of fruit truck at the end of the mercato.

Then head back towards the main drag (Corso Umberto I), and wander over to Da Michele to get in line.

I honestly wouldn’t bother with the Margarita, even though this is Naple’s most iconic pizza. Go for the marinara.

Then back to wandering the streets and piazzas in the center of the city.

From there, you might be lucky enough to stumble upon a creepy doll hospital.

Or a stash of, what our friends the Pizza Pilgrims, have taught us in the best damn pizza-makin’ flour around.

And, of course, you will find the presepe. In addition to pizza, Naples is famous for its presepe, or cribs. Christmas manger scenes that sometimes take a decidedly modern detour.

i.e. with plenty of figures like Berlusconi, Gaddafi, and Sarkozy, to go alongside baby Jesus.

But if you continue through the city, you can make your way up to this street:

And hop on the funicular. (Side note: After 26 years of speaking English, I am always surprised to find words I don’t know, like funicular. I am 98% sure I have never heard this word before. “You mean that tram thing that goes up the steep hill? It’s not a gondola? Are you serious?”)

Anyways, for about 2 euro, you can buy a 90 min ticket for this crazy-named tram, that will take you up to a much quieter Neapolitan neighborhood with an amazing view.

Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples, anyone?

You also get a birds eye view of the sprawl. Suddenly, your day of constantly being lost is small alleys makes much more sense. There is only one straight street in Naples. Everywhere else twists and turns and angles to take you in a direction you didn’t exactly intend to go.

Back down the hill you go on the friendly funicular.

Make your way back towards the station and stop in for one more pizza to-go at Da Michele.

You’ll have four hours on the train back to Rome to digest.

A final note, and I am by no means an expert… Naples has a rather unsavory reputation. I’ve never felt threatened there, but I also don’t wander down unknown streets at night. Be observant, be alert, and you should be fine.

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Pizza in Naples: Da Michele

Jan 14 2011 Published by L'americana under Italian Food

Recently, we had a craving for pizza. There are no shortages of great pizzerias in Rome, but we decided that the only thing that would do was a trip Naples.

A 9 Euro train ticket and a 2 hour ride later, we were standing in front of Da Michele.

Da Michele is not a highly guarded foodie secret. It’s amazing and everyone knows it, so you might have to wait in line.

When it’s your turn, tell them how many people you have and you’ll be ushered towards enough space at a long communal table.

When it’s time to order, you shouldn’t have too much trouble deciding. There are only two items on the menu at Da Michele.

Pizza Margherita and Pizza Marinara. Period.

Naples literally invented Pizza Margherita, but I have to say that I love the Pizza Marinara at Da Michele.

Of course, we ordered both kinds:

Pick up your knife and fork and prepare to ruin yourself for life. Da Michele lives up to the hype- this is the best pizza I have ever had.

The dough is perfectly cooked, gooey and charred at the same time. The mastery is in the execution- the combination of just a few ingredients: some tomatoes, oregano, garlic, cheese and basil. It sounds so simple, but there is nothing ordinary about your first bite.